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Chilean Rose Setup

Darkly_Innocent

New Member
3 Year Member
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina, USA
I'm hoping to get a Chilean Rose soon but am new to Tarantula keeping. I have already done some research and have picked out a setup but wanted to run it past y'all to see if it's a suitable setup before purchasing?

Enclosure (Large Size): https://www.chewy.com/iris-plastic-top-entry-reptile/dp/164842

Substrate: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-eco-earth-loose-coconut-fiber/dp/123773

Water Bowl (Small Size): https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...ng-things-reptile-bowl-38653.html?cgid=500116

Hide (Small Size): https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...-things-reptile-refuge-14750.html?cgid=500116

Decor: https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...skull-reptile-ornament-38654.html?cgid=500116

Decor: https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...guaro-reptile-ornament-38023.html?cgid=500116

Anything wrong or missing?
 

Cody-Myles

Active Member
3 Year Member
Messages
126
Location
Burntwood, Staffordshire
Ts can get stressed if their enclosures are too big, too humid, too hot/cold etc but you haven't got to be exact about everything down to a fine art. Tarantulas are very hardy animals and didn't survive millions of years by being pamby about their surroundings, they just adapted through evolution so don't spend too long being concerned about the finer things. If it's an arid species like a rose hair then just give arid substrate and as long as you provide a water dish for them they'll be happy, I came home to my zebra knee last night with her ass in the air against the side of the enclosure and her face buried in the water dish so they will drink from it. An unhappy T will become lethargic, stop eating, move very little and sometimes hibernate, in the sense they will spend a lot of their time cooped up in their burrow. Mine perked up a lot when they had the right humidity level and what tiny dishes I could find for water but they will get a lot of their water ingestion from the prey they eat.
If you get a sling then it I'll be far cheaper to use generic enclosures as they grow like vials, RUBs, the aforementioned deli cups, adapted enclosures like a Fererro rocher box etc etc and you can spend the money on making their final enclosure beatiful and even adapt things into an 'ornate' and unique one like terrariums that are used for plants or if it's an arboreal species, a candle lantern (which is the project for my ghost ornamentals finale enclosure [emoji1303]).
There are also acrylic boxes readily available for cheap like critter keepers and generic acrylic boxes etc. Cheapest water dish you can get is a pop bottle cap or as I use for my slings, a beer bottle cap.

All this probably came out as a load of gabble but hey ‍♂️


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Arachnoclown

Well-Known Member
1,000+ Post Club
3 Year Member
Tarantula Club Member
Messages
6,382
Location
The Oregon rain forest
T's don't get stressed if their enclosures are too big...Ts aren't stressed in the wild??? However it is harder for fragile slings to hunt in a gigantic enclosure. That's why it is said to keep them in a enclosure that is appropriate for their size. (The stress comes from not eating). T's don't need or require alot of room as adults. It's all personal preference. However I like to spoil my little gals...my males aren't so lucky. They tend to become suicidal upon maturity (constantly hanging upside down to try to get out) they get large shallow enclosures. This ensures me the only way they can die is old age and breeding. :)

Would that be an ok size for a T from Petco or is it too small?[/QUOTE]
That enclosure looks great for your new T.
 

Cody-Myles

Active Member
3 Year Member
Messages
126
Location
Burntwood, Staffordshire
T's don't get stressed if their enclosures are too big...Ts aren't stressed in the wild??? However it is harder for fragile slings to hunt in a gigantic enclosure. That's why it is said to keep them in a enclosure that is appropriate for their size. (The stress comes from not eating). T's don't need or require alot of room as adults. It's all personal preference. However I like to spoil my little gals...my males aren't so lucky. They tend to become suicidal upon maturity (constantly hanging upside down to try to get out) they get large shallow enclosures. This ensures me the only way they can die is old age and breeding. :)

Would that be an ok size for a T from Petco or is it too small?
That enclosure looks great for your new T.[/QUOTE]
Oh yeah valid point, my bad, looks like my masses of research led me down the wrong path on enclosure sizes. Forgot it made prey hunting difficult too.
They lay lines everywhere they go so they can map out their territory and know where there hide is (from my understanding anyway). Mine dash straight to their hide when startled. Probably why there's a layer of substrate on the top held together in one big mat with silk. All of my Ts have done this (minus my arboreal).


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Whitelightning777

Well-Known Member
1,000+ Post Club
3 Year Member
Messages
2,565
Location
Baltimore MD
There's a simple trick if the enclosure keeps the prey items to far from the tarantula because of size or some other reason.

Locate the tarantula's burrow or entrance to the hide. Obtain a small bottle cap from a beer bottle or long neck soda bottle.

Place this near the entrance of the hide but not blocking it. Place cricket chow (assume it's crickets) or a small amount of whatever the feeder consumes. The temptation to go to close to the tarantula is irrestible.

Obtain a second cap just like the first one. Place hydration gel in that one. Position it so the feeder has to either walk through the hide or back and forth in front of it or on each side of the burrow. Tarantulas are very sensitive to vibration and smell. It won't take long for even the smallest T in the biggest cage to find dinner.

Tarantulas are ambush predators. Typical feeders like crickets and roaches venture far and wide to encounter food items. It's just a question of getting them to spend all of their time practically right next to the tarantula, hunting over bait another words.
 
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