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<blockquote data-quote="Nunua" data-source="post: 156510" data-attributes="member: 4947"><p>Humidity and temperature varies on a(n) hourly / daily / weekly / monthly basis even in the deserts, and tarantulas are very adaptable animals - For example, humidity in Mojave desert at day time may be RH% 15 and at night RH% 55, after a possible rain even more.</p><p>For more "stable" deserts Sahara has an average RH% 25 - So in the end, if we start staring at humidity levels we should never give water dishes to arid species because it's enough to significantly increase the relative humidity inside the enclosure way over RH% 25 as every enclosure has kind of a micro climate.</p><p></p><p>We should also remember that most of the tarantulas in the current hobby base are captive bred, in many cases born from egg sacks that are from individuals that have been adapting into the current conditions over several generations. It is true that there are some spp. that require higher humidity that can easily be created with false bottom under the substrate layer etc. but Avicularia for example thrives in aenenclosure with efficient cross ventilation (e.g. Exoterra that you're using - top mesh + vents under the door(s) = air moves through the tank) with occasionally (weekly, every second week) overflowed water dish to shoot up the humidity for a short while.</p><p></p><p>Furthermore, high humidity easily causes stagnant air that is very well known by killing i.e. Avicularia spp. like flies. You can read about 'Sudden Avic Death Syndrome' if you want to. It's my understanding that SADS happened because of hobbyists staring at the information about where these species originated from and tried to keep the similar humidity levels - What they did not take in consideration was that Avicularia spp. live in treetops with constant airflow and water evaporation.</p><p></p><p>Tarantulas can show very well if they are dehydrated or living in too dry environment: They hover over the water dish and won't retreat into their hides further away if not necessary. If it's too warm for them, they dig underground because it's cooler there. If the substrate is too damp, they stick to the walls until substrate dries.</p><p></p><p>The only time I have used an air humidifier on the shelf I keep my enclosures, was in my previous apt last winter where the humidity in the whole apartment dropped all the way down to RH% 8 because of the radiators and cold weather so the smallest water dishes (blister packs) evaporated quickly. All my Ts, even the smallest slings, kept eating, living and molting just like normally. No anomalies what so ever. I had not and still don't have a single clue about the RH% inside any of my enclosures.</p><p></p><p>I'm not saying that one is not allowed to stare at the numbers but it's absolutely unnecessary and easily just makes a person paranoid, quickly killing the joy of keeping these gorgeous animals <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nunua, post: 156510, member: 4947"] Humidity and temperature varies on a(n) hourly / daily / weekly / monthly basis even in the deserts, and tarantulas are very adaptable animals - For example, humidity in Mojave desert at day time may be RH% 15 and at night RH% 55, after a possible rain even more. For more "stable" deserts Sahara has an average RH% 25 - So in the end, if we start staring at humidity levels we should never give water dishes to arid species because it's enough to significantly increase the relative humidity inside the enclosure way over RH% 25 as every enclosure has kind of a micro climate. We should also remember that most of the tarantulas in the current hobby base are captive bred, in many cases born from egg sacks that are from individuals that have been adapting into the current conditions over several generations. It is true that there are some spp. that require higher humidity that can easily be created with false bottom under the substrate layer etc. but Avicularia for example thrives in aenenclosure with efficient cross ventilation (e.g. Exoterra that you're using - top mesh + vents under the door(s) = air moves through the tank) with occasionally (weekly, every second week) overflowed water dish to shoot up the humidity for a short while. Furthermore, high humidity easily causes stagnant air that is very well known by killing i.e. Avicularia spp. like flies. You can read about 'Sudden Avic Death Syndrome' if you want to. It's my understanding that SADS happened because of hobbyists staring at the information about where these species originated from and tried to keep the similar humidity levels - What they did not take in consideration was that Avicularia spp. live in treetops with constant airflow and water evaporation. Tarantulas can show very well if they are dehydrated or living in too dry environment: They hover over the water dish and won't retreat into their hides further away if not necessary. If it's too warm for them, they dig underground because it's cooler there. If the substrate is too damp, they stick to the walls until substrate dries. The only time I have used an air humidifier on the shelf I keep my enclosures, was in my previous apt last winter where the humidity in the whole apartment dropped all the way down to RH% 8 because of the radiators and cold weather so the smallest water dishes (blister packs) evaporated quickly. All my Ts, even the smallest slings, kept eating, living and molting just like normally. No anomalies what so ever. I had not and still don't have a single clue about the RH% inside any of my enclosures. I'm not saying that one is not allowed to stare at the numbers but it's absolutely unnecessary and easily just makes a person paranoid, quickly killing the joy of keeping these gorgeous animals :) [/QUOTE]
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