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Waterfalls inside a Terrarium?
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<blockquote data-quote="Poec54" data-source="post: 41390" data-attributes="member: 3524"><p>Where are you? If you're in the US, it's 99% certain that you have stirmi, not blondi, which is good, as the two look very much alike and blondi's much more delicate and almost impossible to breed (hence the scarcity and high prices). </p><p></p><p>I have stirmi at all sizes. They're popular in the US because they're the hardiest Theraphosa and w/c's are still being imported (unlike the other two in the genus). Don't get hung up on humidity percentages. Cage thermometers are notoriously inaccurate anyways. Most of my stirmi are w/c and I hand selected them from a reptile dealer, choosing the skinniest ones that needed the most care. All have done great. </p><p></p><p><em>To thrive, they need:</em></p><p>- Moist substrate, not wet or soggy. Don't let it dry out either though. Some people put gravel in the bottom, which is totally unnecessary. You don't want it <em>that </em>wet in there. Mine do fine in the same conditions I keep my Asian terrestrials in. In spite of what the TKG says, Theraphosa <em>ARE NOT</em> 'swamp dwellers. Unfortunately some people read this and take it literally. </p><p>- I use bagged top soil, the cheap stuff from Home Depot, without any fertilizer added, costs $1.50 for 40 lbs. I hate cocofiber. </p><p>- Good cross ventilation, which means holes in the upper sides. That keeps mold/mites to a minimum. Air holes in the lid ruin part of the microclimate/humidity effect. You don't want to have condensation. Misting blows hairs airborne, and you will soon see the folly in that.</p><p>- Full, clean water bowl at all times. I use 3oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores. They get nasty, I throw them out. If you use a ceramic water bowl, you'll be scrubbing it regularly.</p><p>- Lots of food. </p><p>- Temps preferably 75 to 85. </p><p>- Use tongs/forceps for all cage maintenance. Their hairs will be all over the cage, and they can burn for hours. I also use disposable vinyl gloves, and if I'm doing a few age transfers, a plastic painters/grinders face shield. After you gets hairs on your face, you won't want that to happen again. Never get them in your eyes. If you get 'haired' using making tape or duct tape will remove most of them, but you have to do it before you start scratching. </p><p></p><p>Let me assure you, you <em><strong>do not</strong></em> want a waterfall in that cage, nor do you need one. I have 100 species of tarantulas, and hands down Theraphosa put the most vile things in their water bowls, truly disgusting. You'd never be able to keep a waterfall clean enough to be a source of drinking water. It would soon be a haven for bacteria. </p><p></p><p>With reasonable conditions, Theraphosa are hardy. There's some questionable advice out there, from people that have little experience with them. They tend to exaggerate how wet they need to be kept.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Poec54, post: 41390, member: 3524"] Where are you? If you're in the US, it's 99% certain that you have stirmi, not blondi, which is good, as the two look very much alike and blondi's much more delicate and almost impossible to breed (hence the scarcity and high prices). I have stirmi at all sizes. They're popular in the US because they're the hardiest Theraphosa and w/c's are still being imported (unlike the other two in the genus). Don't get hung up on humidity percentages. Cage thermometers are notoriously inaccurate anyways. Most of my stirmi are w/c and I hand selected them from a reptile dealer, choosing the skinniest ones that needed the most care. All have done great. [I]To thrive, they need:[/I] - Moist substrate, not wet or soggy. Don't let it dry out either though. Some people put gravel in the bottom, which is totally unnecessary. You don't want it [I]that [/I]wet in there. Mine do fine in the same conditions I keep my Asian terrestrials in. In spite of what the TKG says, Theraphosa [I]ARE NOT[/I] 'swamp dwellers. Unfortunately some people read this and take it literally. - I use bagged top soil, the cheap stuff from Home Depot, without any fertilizer added, costs $1.50 for 40 lbs. I hate cocofiber. - Good cross ventilation, which means holes in the upper sides. That keeps mold/mites to a minimum. Air holes in the lid ruin part of the microclimate/humidity effect. You don't want to have condensation. Misting blows hairs airborne, and you will soon see the folly in that. - Full, clean water bowl at all times. I use 3oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores. They get nasty, I throw them out. If you use a ceramic water bowl, you'll be scrubbing it regularly. - Lots of food. - Temps preferably 75 to 85. - Use tongs/forceps for all cage maintenance. Their hairs will be all over the cage, and they can burn for hours. I also use disposable vinyl gloves, and if I'm doing a few age transfers, a plastic painters/grinders face shield. After you gets hairs on your face, you won't want that to happen again. Never get them in your eyes. If you get 'haired' using making tape or duct tape will remove most of them, but you have to do it before you start scratching. Let me assure you, you [I][B]do not[/B][/I] want a waterfall in that cage, nor do you need one. I have 100 species of tarantulas, and hands down Theraphosa put the most vile things in their water bowls, truly disgusting. You'd never be able to keep a waterfall clean enough to be a source of drinking water. It would soon be a haven for bacteria. With reasonable conditions, Theraphosa are hardy. There's some questionable advice out there, from people that have little experience with them. They tend to exaggerate how wet they need to be kept. [/QUOTE]
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