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General Tarantula Discussion
Feather leg baboon
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<blockquote data-quote="Nicolas C" data-source="post: 96319" data-attributes="member: 3795"><p>Thanks for the photos. I cannot see it on the picture, but I assume you have ventilation holes on this enclosure? The best would be to have them on two sides or one side + top, to allow air circulation/flow. If there aren't any vent holes, you will have to buy another enclosure, I'm afraid...</p><p></p><p>Other than that, the vertical wood is perfect. I'd add some more substrate personally, to allow your tarantula to dig a burrow if needed. It will rise the wood a little bit more, which is fine too.</p><p></p><p>My advice about humidity for your Stromatopelma would be: let all the enclosure completely dry out (there shouldn't be condensation on the glass), then put a waterdish on the substrate near the opening side (to make filling easier) and that's it. No need to pour water on the substrate, no need to mist. Humidity gauges are often inaccurate unfortunately, unless you buy a professional one, which would be overkill: your tarantula doesn't need it. One dish with clean water and voilà.</p><p></p><p>What's the size of your two Ts?</p><p></p><p>I ask because spiderlings (= baby spiders) are more fragile about humidity issues.</p><p></p><p>One more thing about Stromatopelma calceatum: they are known as being one of the fastest and most defensive tarantula available in the hobby. And their venom is quite potent too. Be very careful when dealing with her, always use a forceps and never bare hands inside the enclosure, and be sure that she has no possibilities to escape. If she has a good hide and is well settled, she will hide inside when you do maintenance (never do anything inside the cage when she's out of her burrow). But as they are unpredictable, be always on your guard with them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nicolas C, post: 96319, member: 3795"] Thanks for the photos. I cannot see it on the picture, but I assume you have ventilation holes on this enclosure? The best would be to have them on two sides or one side + top, to allow air circulation/flow. If there aren't any vent holes, you will have to buy another enclosure, I'm afraid... Other than that, the vertical wood is perfect. I'd add some more substrate personally, to allow your tarantula to dig a burrow if needed. It will rise the wood a little bit more, which is fine too. My advice about humidity for your Stromatopelma would be: let all the enclosure completely dry out (there shouldn't be condensation on the glass), then put a waterdish on the substrate near the opening side (to make filling easier) and that's it. No need to pour water on the substrate, no need to mist. Humidity gauges are often inaccurate unfortunately, unless you buy a professional one, which would be overkill: your tarantula doesn't need it. One dish with clean water and voilà. What's the size of your two Ts? I ask because spiderlings (= baby spiders) are more fragile about humidity issues. One more thing about Stromatopelma calceatum: they are known as being one of the fastest and most defensive tarantula available in the hobby. And their venom is quite potent too. Be very careful when dealing with her, always use a forceps and never bare hands inside the enclosure, and be sure that she has no possibilities to escape. If she has a good hide and is well settled, she will hide inside when you do maintenance (never do anything inside the cage when she's out of her burrow). But as they are unpredictable, be always on your guard with them. [/QUOTE]
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Feather leg baboon
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