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Epoxy resin for preserving molts

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
Has anyone used epoxy resin to preserve molts, or even dead specimens? I've just started to experiment with this and looking for tips and tricks
 

spookworm

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
So, I haven't yet preserved a molt in resin yet but I plan to in the future when I become a bit more comfortable working with resin as a whole. I will say, my first experience with resin was with epoxy resin and it turned out to be a complete disaster. There were bubbles everywhere, the mixture wasn't clear, I had to rush through the process to make sure it didn't harden... it was bad. So because of this, I tried switching over to UV resin and the results were SO much better. I can't stand epoxy resin (personally). UV is much easier to work with and the quality is top notch. This is the UV resin I've used.
Again, haven't used it to preserve specimens but I've been practicing on random bits and bobs here and there and it's been working out so far. I've mainly just been looking at youtube channels to get their tips and suggestions. A lot of jewelry makers use resin so it's cool to see their processes and try to mimic them. The hardest thing is trying to eliminate bubbles in the mixture, but I just use a toothpick to swish around the mixture as best I can to pop any bits I see.
Not the best advice, I know, but I'm still learning too! Hope your project(s) is a success!
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
I've heard alot of people say using a vacuum chamber helps with bubbles. So I'm planning on trying that next. As using a torch/heat gun hasn't worked well
 

Dw07u

Member
Messages
32
Location
KZN South Africa
Hi
I'll be following this thread. My girlfriend and I are looking into resin projects and I think I would love having the molts permanently-preserved in resin so I can keep a collection of my T's growing.

So I also watch plenty of YouTubers such as Evan and Katelyn, but have not done any resin stuff myself.

So what I can take away from those whom I watch:
In regards to bubbles, if you do not have the pressure or vacuum chambers, a slow curing resin would be best as it will allow bubbles to rise to the surface and you can sand them off or use a hot blow torch to pop them.

My understanding is that a pressure pot is more effective in dealing with bubbles after it's been poured as it squeezes it out while the resin is curing(leaving it in the pot to cure under pressure). I've seen vacuum chambers being used more before the pour(before the curing process has really started).

Keen to see what this would lead to.
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
I have just built my own vacuum and pressure chambers, so after testing to see if they will indeed hold pressure/vacuum, I will try each out on a project and see what the results are
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
20200815_143335.jpg
nothing fancy, I'll pour some resin later today and see how it works
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
I tried pre coating a molt with a thin layer of epoxy before doing the full pour. In an effort to reduce bubbles, and to keep it from floating up to the top of the pour. Didn't work. Ended up breaking 2 legs off of a perfectly intact molt. I'm waiting 24 hours to remove it from the mold and see the total result. But I'm pretty disappointed in how it went today.
 

Dw07u

Member
Messages
32
Location
KZN South Africa
Slowly with a stir stick. So far I haven't been able to mix it without getting bubbles in it
So my GF and I got some resin from a craft store, it's designed for slow curing and flows really well, most of the bubbles rise to the top before it becomes tacky. It stays very fluid for about 40 minutes or so in our cold weather, heat helps it cure faster so the colder it is the longer work time we have. Maybe try casting with ice water cooling off your molds? I'll post some pictures later. The resin is some sort of epoxy.

We don't have any vacuum or pressure chambers so this slow curing resin is working nicely. Full curing time is 72 Hours in somewhat warm weather.
 
Messages
45
Location
KENTUCKY
I did this about 11 or 12 years ago. I don't remember much other than going to hobby lobby and getting whatever resin they had. I never got around to finishing it- I dont know how- so a little goo gone on the surface and it helps take a better picture.

Without further ado here he is. I personally haven't seen this cast in about 3 years. Great topic to follow up on.

20200910_112620.jpg


20200910_113023.jpg


20200910_113137.jpg
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
I did this about 11 or 12 years ago. I don't remember much other than going to hobby lobby and getting whatever resin they had. I never got around to finishing it- I dont know how- so a little goo gone on the surface and it helps take a better picture.

Without further ado here he is. I personally haven't seen this cast in about 3 years. Great topic to follow up on.

View attachment 49457

View attachment 49458

View attachment 49459
Pretty good quality, better than what I've gotten so far. to finish it you can wet sand to remove surface imperfections. Then either use an automotive polish or I've been spraying with an acrylic clear coat
 
Messages
45
Location
KENTUCKY
Automotive polish you say? I can work with that. :)
I could probably get a wet sander from like lowes I'm assuming? I have 60 grit do you recommend any other grains?

My cast has a fair share of imperfections, including a spot that you can see a bare toe. Thank goodness for exoskeletons.
 

Aracnoenthusiast

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
598
Location
Nebraska
Automotive polish you say? I can work with that. :)
I could probably get a wet sander from like lowes I'm assuming? I have 60 grit do you recommend any other grains?

My cast has a fair share of imperfections, including a spot that you can see a bare toe. Thank goodness for exoskeletons.
I just use wet sandpaper by hand. You can get it at any auto store and most Walmart's. I usually dont go any less than 320 grit then work to 3000 grit.
 
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