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<blockquote data-quote="Dave Jay" data-source="post: 133663" data-attributes="member: 27677"><p>Tarantula Starter Kit Instructions.</p><p></p><p>Small Tarantula Starter Kit.</p><p></p><p>The Tarantula included in the kit is a Selenotypus "species 2" tarantula, an arid burrowing species.</p><p></p><p>WARNING - </p><p>Australian Tarantulas are not considered life threatening to humans but you should be aware that their bite can be fatal to dogs and perhaps cats. </p><p>Electrical tape can be used to better secure the lid and minimise any risk.</p><p>Tarantulas do not always inject venom when biting, there are "wet bites" and "dry bites" so the severity of any symptoms may vary considerably.</p><p>If bitten it is always wise to seek medical advise to control symptoms of a bite which can involve pain, fever and nausea.</p><p>Always use tongs or other implements for maintenance never bare fingers as Tarantulas react to vibrations in their webbing, some may have a bite first and look later hunting strategy. </p><p>I will accept no responsibility for any consequences resulting from the purchase of this Tarantula, it is the buyers responsibility to ensure that there is no risk to people or pets. </p><p></p><p>Setting Up The Enclosure.</p><p></p><p>1 - Empty half of the Substrate Mix into a bowl and using your syringe dribble 10ml of water over it and mix thoroughly.</p><p> Allow to stand for 5 minutes for the water to be absorbed evenly, stirring occasionally.</p><p></p><p>2 - Place two heaped teaspoons of substrate into the enclosure leaving one corner bare.</p><p></p><p>3 - Hold the straw/tube upright in the bare corner with the angled end down.</p><p> Pack the substrate around the base of the straw so that it stands by itself,</p><p> compress the substrate evenly on the bottom of the enclosure.</p><p> Add substrate two teaspoons at a time pressing it down firmly and evenly before adding more.</p><p> When finished the surface of the substrate should be approximately halfway up the side of the enclosure.</p><p> It is important to compact the substrate as much as possible so that a burrow will hold it's shape and not collapse.</p><p></p><p>4 - Add your decor as you wish but a small amount of Sphagnum Moss should be located near the water tube,</p><p> this will be your "wet area".</p><p> Where a solid piece of decor has been provided make an indentation in the substrate and place the decor over it.</p><p> This allows the Tarantula to easily form a cave/burrow if it desires.</p><p></p><p>5 - Lightly spray the entire enclosure to set the surface of the substrate.</p><p> Use the water to clean stray substrate from off of the walls and decor if needed, a small paintbrush can speed the</p><p> process and reduce the amount of water used.</p><p> Set the enclosure aside with the lid off for 10 minutes or more to allow water to be absorbed and equalised,</p><p> and for the entire enclosure to reach room temperature.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Unpacking Your Tarantula.</p><p></p><p> - Locate a tub or container large enough for the enclosure and the shipping tub to fit in easily,</p><p> this will be your work station. </p><p> This tub must have a lid as while this species can't climb smooth surfaces very well they may be able to climb on some plastic surfaces. </p><p> If during unpacking or transferring the tarantula it escapes placing the lid on the tub is recommended, this allows both you and the Tarantula to become calm. </p><p> - Place your tongs, your torch and a teaspoon next to the work container. </p><p> - Place the enclosure into the work container. </p><p> - Cut and remove the tape from the shipping tub.</p><p> - Using your torch locate the Tarantula in the posting tub.</p><p> - Place the shipping tub into the work container, taking note of the Tarantulas position and remove the lid.</p><p> - Using the tongs carefully remove the moss until the Tarantula is exposed.</p><p></p><p> - All Tarantulas will act differently at this point.</p><p> - Sometimes they behave, you uncover them, lift the tub with the tongs and tilt it over the enclosure and they just walk in.</p><p> That is the most common scenario, calmly coaxing them out of the tub and into the new enclosure and shutting the lid.</p><p> I find the back of the teaspoon is good for gently prodding them to direct them where to go as it is smooth and rounded.</p><p></p><p> - This species of tarantula can't climb smooth surfaces very well so "pouring" them out of one container into the next will often work, you just need to make sure you don't add too much unwanted material to your enclosure.</p><p></p><p> - If during unpacking your Tarantula escapes the shipping tub or enclosure and is loose in your work container put the lid </p><p>on the container immediately then simply find a bigger work container. </p><p> You can then remove the shipping tub and spilled moss and put them out of the way.</p><p> Then put the enclosure into the new work container and tilt the old container so that with guidance the Tarantula runs along the corner and into the enclosure. If it doesn't go in or jumps out you just have to repeat the procedure until success.</p><p> </p><p> - Some cling to moss and wont move from it, if so using the tongs and the spoon try to pick up the moss the Tarantula</p><p> is clinging to, manoeuvring the spoon beneath the Tarantula and place both moss and Tarantula into the enclosure and</p><p> close the lid, excess moss can be trimmed or removed later once the Tarantula has moved.</p><p></p><p>Your Tarantula enclosure can now be placed in the room.</p><p></p><p>It should be somewhere where the heat stays fairly even. </p><p>Although this species of Tarantula are often found in arid areas they avoid the heat and dry of the day by burrowing and </p><p>hiding where moisture levels and temperatures are very stable. </p><p>They can thrive in a wide range of temperatures, from 15c in winter to the over 30c extremes in summer but large swings in temperature can be fatal. </p><p>Never have them too close to a heater, not only might they overheat or dry out quickly but the sudden up and down swings in temperature as the heater is turned on or off might be fatal as they can't adjust quickly enough.</p><p>It is better to have a constant low temperature than to have swings in temperature. </p><p>In most situations room temperature will be fine for them, between 18 and 25 are the preferred temperatures but unless where you keep your Tarantula is constantly going below 15c a heater will not be needed. </p><p>The kit includes a thermometer that should be placed on or next to the enclosure to check ambient temperature, check it throughout the day to gauge if the temperature stays fairly constant, a slight difference between evening and morning should be expected but if it approaches a 10c difference a more stable position should be found. </p><p>Sunlight can rapidly heat and dry an enclosure so they should never be located where sunbeams fall onto the enclosure.</p><p></p><p>Moisture</p><p></p><p>In a couple of days check the enclosure to see if the sphagnum moss is still damp, and if the surface of the substrate is lightening in colour.</p><p>If the moss is drying out mist it and the wall near it. The moss should be kept damp, when it has light tips it needs to be misted. </p><p>A small water dish is provided but it is optional if the moss is kept damp. Be aware that moss and stray pieces of substrate can cause the water to wick out of the dish and make the substrate too wet.</p><p>Water shouldn't be added to the surface of the enclosure other than misting the moss and filling the water dish.</p><p></p><p>Which brings us to the straw. </p><p>In nature Tarantulas will dig or burrow to find a moisture level that suits them, the deeper it digs the more moisture it finds.</p><p>The straw allows you to add water to the lower levels of the substrate without it being too moist on the surface.</p><p>Load the syringe with 5ml of water and slowly inject 3ml into the straw. If there is a great difference between the colour of </p><p>the newly wet substrate and the rest of it then it has dried quickly in which case the remaining 2ml should be added.</p><p>Humidity levels in a home vary greatly so how often water will be needed to be added can't be specified but usually a routine can be established based around your feeding schedule. </p><p>Initially checking every few days is recommended.</p><p>You are aiming for the sphagnum moss to be damp, but the surface of the substrate to be almost dry, perhaps dry in parts.</p><p>These Tarantulas are an arid species and too much moisture can lead to problems, if the moss is kept damp very little moisture should be added to the substrate, one damp corner will be fine.</p><p>If large areas of your substrate go mouldy you will need to replace it and cut back dramatically on how much water is added.</p><p>Twice the amount of substrate needed is included in the kit for this reason, as is ample sphagnum moss to replace that if soiled or too wet. If a small amount of substrate becomes mouldy just scoop it out and replace it if needed. </p><p>Condensation on a cold morning is fine but it should be gone by the afternoon. Heavy condensation is usually a sign that too much water has been added but it can also be a sign that the temperature is swinging too much over the day/night cycle and the enclosure should be moved to a different position in the room.</p><p></p><p>Food</p><p></p><p>Tarantulas have a very slow metabolism and require very little food to survive. As long as the abdomen looks plump there is no need to be alarmed if food is refused.</p><p>How often they feed varies according to how warm they are and how much moisture they are losing to the air.</p><p>As long as they are not becoming desiccated they can go months without food, they simply wont expend any energy.</p><p>Once a week is a standard feeding schedule but young Tarantulas will often take food twice a week.</p><p>Some will only eat once a fortnight or even once a month, particurarily in winter when they would usually be dormant anyway.</p><p>Tarantulas enter a phase known as "pre-moult". During this phase they will refuse all food. This phase could last a month or more.</p><p>Tarantulas eat mostly live insects but may take freshly killed insects or parts of insects, many people cut up mealworms or crickets to feed small Tarantulas however not all will take them. </p><p>The most readily taken food are crickets of an appropriate size. </p><p>The smallest sold are "pinhead crickets" and these are fed to very small baby Tarantulas. </p><p>Your Tarantula is larger and can eat the size "small crickets" but "pinheads" are also suitable.</p><p>The prey should be half the size of the Tarantula or smaller, a very hungry Tarantula will tackle larger prey but best feeding results are had with prey about half the size of the Tarantula or smaller.</p><p>When an insect is not eaten immediately I add a tiny piece of carrot into the enclosure so that the prey does not nibble on </p><p>the Tarantula, crickets in particular will chew on Tarantula if hungry. </p><p>Tarantulas will often be startled by you opening the lid and a live insect dropped in and flinch away from the prey, particularly if it is bigger than ideal.</p><p>If the prey seems to have the Tarantula on the run for a long time you can swap it for a smaller size or crush it's head.</p><p>Live or dead prey should be removed if not eaten overnight as should any remains of eaten prey.</p><p>Of course insects of an appropriate size could likely be caught in your yard but the risks are high. Apart from parasites or </p><p>other "hitchhikers" there is a risk of them having been in contact with poison or even having eaten plants poisonous to Tarantulas.</p><p></p><p>Moulting</p><p></p><p>Tarantulas require a higher humidity environment to moult successfully.</p><p>Because you are adding water via the straw it can find the environment it needs by digging a burrow. It can dig to find the required moisture level to moult.</p><p>It will most likely block the enterance to it's home when it needs to moult, this raises the humidity in the burrow.</p><p>If you see your Tarantula has blocked its self in you should not disturb it, no food should be added. </p><p>It may or may not be moulting, but a moulting or newly moulted Tarantula is very vulnerable and can be damaged by feeder insects.</p><p>Disturbing a moulting or newly moulted Tarantula can result in an injury or death through the humidity being lowered and the exoskeleton getting stuck. Blocking themselves in a burrow is common behaviour and should not cause panic.</p><p>The water usually added as per your routine should still be added, but monitor carefully so that you keep moisture levels constant.</p><p>When you see your Tarantula outside its home again you can usually commence feeding again, a newly moulted Tarantula has soft fangs that can be damaged by trying to eat too soon so it is recommended to wait a week before offering food if you see an exoskeleton in the enclosure.</p><p></p><p>Light</p><p></p><p>Included in the kit are a torch and a small led light.</p><p>The torch should be used sparingly, it stresses the Tarantula and may be harmful if used constantly.</p><p>The led light can be used to light the enclosure for viewing, some Tarantulas will hide from it if it is too bright for them.</p><p>Coloured light seems to be tolerated well, white light needs to be positioned so that it does not shine on the Tarantula </p><p>intensely.</p><p></p><p>Pesticides and sprays.</p><p></p><p>All sprays can be considered hazerdous to Tarantulas, pesticides in particular of course. </p><p>The enclosure should be removed from the room any time sprays are used and not brought back until all traces have left the air.</p><p>If the enclosure cant be moved it should be covered well and the outside wiped with a wet tissue or clean cloth when the </p><p>danger is over.</p><p>Be aware that your hands can be a source of contaminants. Soaps, detergents and many other substances can be present on your hands. Be aware you can pick up pesticides and other chemicals from your other pets too, patting your dog or cat could leave pesticide residue on your hands even if you use tablets or other ingested treatments due to the ingested pesticide being present in the animals skin or hair.</p><p>Always wash your hands carefully before and after handling any equipment or food for your Tarantula or the feeder insects.</p><p>The same care taken to avoid contamination of your Tarantula should be taken for your feeder insects too.</p><p></p><p>These instructions and care notes are a brief guide only, and reflect the husbandry methods I've found to be successful, others may use different husbandry methods that are also successful.</p><p></p><p>More detailed care instructions can be found online, I highly recommend conducting your own research.</p><p></p><p>Forums can be a good source of information as can some facebook groups. </p><p>There are many instructional videos on Youtube but be aware that most will be about tropical exotic species requiring higher moisture levels than our arid species. </p><p>Care instructions for the Australian Phlogius genus will also show higher moisture and humidity levels than that required for Selenotypus species. </p><p>Care instructions for adult Selenotypus species will indicate lower moisture levels than the spiderlings (slings) require.</p><p></p><p>If the instructions I've provided regarding moisture are followed you will have created moisture gradients in the enclosure </p><p>allowing the tarantula to choose a position where the moisture levels suit it best so it doesn't need to be precise.</p><p>If the tarantula is always near the "wettest" part of the enclosure you might need to add slightly more water, if it is always where the substrate is driest you may need to allow the substrate to dry and add less water at a time.</p><p></p><p>Enjoy your new pet!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave Jay, post: 133663, member: 27677"] Tarantula Starter Kit Instructions. Small Tarantula Starter Kit. The Tarantula included in the kit is a Selenotypus "species 2" tarantula, an arid burrowing species. WARNING - Australian Tarantulas are not considered life threatening to humans but you should be aware that their bite can be fatal to dogs and perhaps cats. Electrical tape can be used to better secure the lid and minimise any risk. Tarantulas do not always inject venom when biting, there are "wet bites" and "dry bites" so the severity of any symptoms may vary considerably. If bitten it is always wise to seek medical advise to control symptoms of a bite which can involve pain, fever and nausea. Always use tongs or other implements for maintenance never bare fingers as Tarantulas react to vibrations in their webbing, some may have a bite first and look later hunting strategy. I will accept no responsibility for any consequences resulting from the purchase of this Tarantula, it is the buyers responsibility to ensure that there is no risk to people or pets. Setting Up The Enclosure. 1 - Empty half of the Substrate Mix into a bowl and using your syringe dribble 10ml of water over it and mix thoroughly. Allow to stand for 5 minutes for the water to be absorbed evenly, stirring occasionally. 2 - Place two heaped teaspoons of substrate into the enclosure leaving one corner bare. 3 - Hold the straw/tube upright in the bare corner with the angled end down. Pack the substrate around the base of the straw so that it stands by itself, compress the substrate evenly on the bottom of the enclosure. Add substrate two teaspoons at a time pressing it down firmly and evenly before adding more. When finished the surface of the substrate should be approximately halfway up the side of the enclosure. It is important to compact the substrate as much as possible so that a burrow will hold it's shape and not collapse. 4 - Add your decor as you wish but a small amount of Sphagnum Moss should be located near the water tube, this will be your "wet area". Where a solid piece of decor has been provided make an indentation in the substrate and place the decor over it. This allows the Tarantula to easily form a cave/burrow if it desires. 5 - Lightly spray the entire enclosure to set the surface of the substrate. Use the water to clean stray substrate from off of the walls and decor if needed, a small paintbrush can speed the process and reduce the amount of water used. Set the enclosure aside with the lid off for 10 minutes or more to allow water to be absorbed and equalised, and for the entire enclosure to reach room temperature. Unpacking Your Tarantula. - Locate a tub or container large enough for the enclosure and the shipping tub to fit in easily, this will be your work station. This tub must have a lid as while this species can't climb smooth surfaces very well they may be able to climb on some plastic surfaces. If during unpacking or transferring the tarantula it escapes placing the lid on the tub is recommended, this allows both you and the Tarantula to become calm. - Place your tongs, your torch and a teaspoon next to the work container. - Place the enclosure into the work container. - Cut and remove the tape from the shipping tub. - Using your torch locate the Tarantula in the posting tub. - Place the shipping tub into the work container, taking note of the Tarantulas position and remove the lid. - Using the tongs carefully remove the moss until the Tarantula is exposed. - All Tarantulas will act differently at this point. - Sometimes they behave, you uncover them, lift the tub with the tongs and tilt it over the enclosure and they just walk in. That is the most common scenario, calmly coaxing them out of the tub and into the new enclosure and shutting the lid. I find the back of the teaspoon is good for gently prodding them to direct them where to go as it is smooth and rounded. - This species of tarantula can't climb smooth surfaces very well so "pouring" them out of one container into the next will often work, you just need to make sure you don't add too much unwanted material to your enclosure. - If during unpacking your Tarantula escapes the shipping tub or enclosure and is loose in your work container put the lid on the container immediately then simply find a bigger work container. You can then remove the shipping tub and spilled moss and put them out of the way. Then put the enclosure into the new work container and tilt the old container so that with guidance the Tarantula runs along the corner and into the enclosure. If it doesn't go in or jumps out you just have to repeat the procedure until success. - Some cling to moss and wont move from it, if so using the tongs and the spoon try to pick up the moss the Tarantula is clinging to, manoeuvring the spoon beneath the Tarantula and place both moss and Tarantula into the enclosure and close the lid, excess moss can be trimmed or removed later once the Tarantula has moved. Your Tarantula enclosure can now be placed in the room. It should be somewhere where the heat stays fairly even. Although this species of Tarantula are often found in arid areas they avoid the heat and dry of the day by burrowing and hiding where moisture levels and temperatures are very stable. They can thrive in a wide range of temperatures, from 15c in winter to the over 30c extremes in summer but large swings in temperature can be fatal. Never have them too close to a heater, not only might they overheat or dry out quickly but the sudden up and down swings in temperature as the heater is turned on or off might be fatal as they can't adjust quickly enough. It is better to have a constant low temperature than to have swings in temperature. In most situations room temperature will be fine for them, between 18 and 25 are the preferred temperatures but unless where you keep your Tarantula is constantly going below 15c a heater will not be needed. The kit includes a thermometer that should be placed on or next to the enclosure to check ambient temperature, check it throughout the day to gauge if the temperature stays fairly constant, a slight difference between evening and morning should be expected but if it approaches a 10c difference a more stable position should be found. Sunlight can rapidly heat and dry an enclosure so they should never be located where sunbeams fall onto the enclosure. Moisture In a couple of days check the enclosure to see if the sphagnum moss is still damp, and if the surface of the substrate is lightening in colour. If the moss is drying out mist it and the wall near it. The moss should be kept damp, when it has light tips it needs to be misted. A small water dish is provided but it is optional if the moss is kept damp. Be aware that moss and stray pieces of substrate can cause the water to wick out of the dish and make the substrate too wet. Water shouldn't be added to the surface of the enclosure other than misting the moss and filling the water dish. Which brings us to the straw. In nature Tarantulas will dig or burrow to find a moisture level that suits them, the deeper it digs the more moisture it finds. The straw allows you to add water to the lower levels of the substrate without it being too moist on the surface. Load the syringe with 5ml of water and slowly inject 3ml into the straw. If there is a great difference between the colour of the newly wet substrate and the rest of it then it has dried quickly in which case the remaining 2ml should be added. Humidity levels in a home vary greatly so how often water will be needed to be added can't be specified but usually a routine can be established based around your feeding schedule. Initially checking every few days is recommended. You are aiming for the sphagnum moss to be damp, but the surface of the substrate to be almost dry, perhaps dry in parts. These Tarantulas are an arid species and too much moisture can lead to problems, if the moss is kept damp very little moisture should be added to the substrate, one damp corner will be fine. If large areas of your substrate go mouldy you will need to replace it and cut back dramatically on how much water is added. Twice the amount of substrate needed is included in the kit for this reason, as is ample sphagnum moss to replace that if soiled or too wet. If a small amount of substrate becomes mouldy just scoop it out and replace it if needed. Condensation on a cold morning is fine but it should be gone by the afternoon. Heavy condensation is usually a sign that too much water has been added but it can also be a sign that the temperature is swinging too much over the day/night cycle and the enclosure should be moved to a different position in the room. Food Tarantulas have a very slow metabolism and require very little food to survive. As long as the abdomen looks plump there is no need to be alarmed if food is refused. How often they feed varies according to how warm they are and how much moisture they are losing to the air. As long as they are not becoming desiccated they can go months without food, they simply wont expend any energy. Once a week is a standard feeding schedule but young Tarantulas will often take food twice a week. Some will only eat once a fortnight or even once a month, particurarily in winter when they would usually be dormant anyway. Tarantulas enter a phase known as "pre-moult". During this phase they will refuse all food. This phase could last a month or more. Tarantulas eat mostly live insects but may take freshly killed insects or parts of insects, many people cut up mealworms or crickets to feed small Tarantulas however not all will take them. The most readily taken food are crickets of an appropriate size. The smallest sold are "pinhead crickets" and these are fed to very small baby Tarantulas. Your Tarantula is larger and can eat the size "small crickets" but "pinheads" are also suitable. The prey should be half the size of the Tarantula or smaller, a very hungry Tarantula will tackle larger prey but best feeding results are had with prey about half the size of the Tarantula or smaller. When an insect is not eaten immediately I add a tiny piece of carrot into the enclosure so that the prey does not nibble on the Tarantula, crickets in particular will chew on Tarantula if hungry. Tarantulas will often be startled by you opening the lid and a live insect dropped in and flinch away from the prey, particularly if it is bigger than ideal. If the prey seems to have the Tarantula on the run for a long time you can swap it for a smaller size or crush it's head. Live or dead prey should be removed if not eaten overnight as should any remains of eaten prey. Of course insects of an appropriate size could likely be caught in your yard but the risks are high. Apart from parasites or other "hitchhikers" there is a risk of them having been in contact with poison or even having eaten plants poisonous to Tarantulas. Moulting Tarantulas require a higher humidity environment to moult successfully. Because you are adding water via the straw it can find the environment it needs by digging a burrow. It can dig to find the required moisture level to moult. It will most likely block the enterance to it's home when it needs to moult, this raises the humidity in the burrow. If you see your Tarantula has blocked its self in you should not disturb it, no food should be added. It may or may not be moulting, but a moulting or newly moulted Tarantula is very vulnerable and can be damaged by feeder insects. Disturbing a moulting or newly moulted Tarantula can result in an injury or death through the humidity being lowered and the exoskeleton getting stuck. Blocking themselves in a burrow is common behaviour and should not cause panic. The water usually added as per your routine should still be added, but monitor carefully so that you keep moisture levels constant. When you see your Tarantula outside its home again you can usually commence feeding again, a newly moulted Tarantula has soft fangs that can be damaged by trying to eat too soon so it is recommended to wait a week before offering food if you see an exoskeleton in the enclosure. Light Included in the kit are a torch and a small led light. The torch should be used sparingly, it stresses the Tarantula and may be harmful if used constantly. The led light can be used to light the enclosure for viewing, some Tarantulas will hide from it if it is too bright for them. Coloured light seems to be tolerated well, white light needs to be positioned so that it does not shine on the Tarantula intensely. Pesticides and sprays. All sprays can be considered hazerdous to Tarantulas, pesticides in particular of course. The enclosure should be removed from the room any time sprays are used and not brought back until all traces have left the air. If the enclosure cant be moved it should be covered well and the outside wiped with a wet tissue or clean cloth when the danger is over. Be aware that your hands can be a source of contaminants. Soaps, detergents and many other substances can be present on your hands. Be aware you can pick up pesticides and other chemicals from your other pets too, patting your dog or cat could leave pesticide residue on your hands even if you use tablets or other ingested treatments due to the ingested pesticide being present in the animals skin or hair. Always wash your hands carefully before and after handling any equipment or food for your Tarantula or the feeder insects. The same care taken to avoid contamination of your Tarantula should be taken for your feeder insects too. These instructions and care notes are a brief guide only, and reflect the husbandry methods I've found to be successful, others may use different husbandry methods that are also successful. More detailed care instructions can be found online, I highly recommend conducting your own research. Forums can be a good source of information as can some facebook groups. There are many instructional videos on Youtube but be aware that most will be about tropical exotic species requiring higher moisture levels than our arid species. Care instructions for the Australian Phlogius genus will also show higher moisture and humidity levels than that required for Selenotypus species. Care instructions for adult Selenotypus species will indicate lower moisture levels than the spiderlings (slings) require. If the instructions I've provided regarding moisture are followed you will have created moisture gradients in the enclosure allowing the tarantula to choose a position where the moisture levels suit it best so it doesn't need to be precise. If the tarantula is always near the "wettest" part of the enclosure you might need to add slightly more water, if it is always where the substrate is driest you may need to allow the substrate to dry and add less water at a time. Enjoy your new pet! [/QUOTE]
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